Trendsetters will see it in both watches and fine jewelry in the coming year

In the film The Devil Wears Prada there is a wonderful scene where Meryl Streep’s character, fashion magazine editor Miranda Priestly, lectures her new assistant about how the fashion business works. Surrounded by her sub-editors, she cites the magazine’s decision to write about a certain colour of blue (cerulean) after it was shown by a certain designer, which led to an industry-wide trend that eventually trickled down from couture to Kmart. “So that sweater you’re wearing,” she sniffs, “was chosen by the people in this room.”

There is an analogy – albeit a less haughty one – to be drawn between this and the genesis of trends in the fine jewelry world. Simply, it all starts at a small Italian trade show in January, on the basis of new collections launched by a handful of Italian master jewelers.

Held in a small town near Venice, VicenzaOro1 is where exhibitors launch new collections and prototypes to the export markets (mainly North America). Depending on what buyers like and don’t like, those collections are expanded and shown at more widely attended shows later in the year, such as Switzerland’s Basel- World Watch and Jewelry show in April and the JCK Jewelry Show held every June in Las Vegas.

A glimpse at the treasures of VicenzaOro1 is therefore a jewelry trend-spotter’s mecca. This year, if you want to be the first to wear the latest styles, perhaps with your cerulean-blue sweater, then think pink. Pink, or rose gold as it’s often called, has emerged as the hottest colour in both gold jewelry and watches.

It’s a subtle, almost brownish colour that is considered to be far less flashy than yellow gold. There is nothing new about rose gold. It has for decades been the colour traditionally used by the watch industry for its special-edition timepieces, serving as a signal of sorts to collectors that there is something special about a particular timepiece (perhaps a rare complication, a limited edition or an important world premiere). Rose gold was rarely used in jewelry at all until recently. In the coming year, it will be turning up in mainstream collections of both watches and fine jewelry.

All gold, it should be noted, is alloyed. In its pure form, it’s too soft to be used for jewelry, so it is mixed with copper and silver. By adjusting the proportions of these metals, a refiner can vary the colour from very pale yellow, often called “green” gold, to a deep red or a deep gold. For rose gold, the refiner simply increases the proportion of copper in the mixture, lowering the proportion of silver.

Many jewelry companies tailor the mix to achieve their own trademark shade of pink. One exhibitor at VicenzaOro1 launched a collection featuring a mix of rose gold and chocolate gold links. The chocolate is a proprietary mix that is luscious coppery brown in colour.

In terms of design, fine jewelry is becoming increasingly dramatic, with long, Chanel-length chains – some as long as 64 inches – which can double as dangling chain belts. The longer chains tend to be comprised of large, open links and, almost without exception, are adorned with stations of gemstones. Coloured gemstones have been a trend for several years, reflecting the dominance of colour in runway fashion, but as couture colours take a turn toward subdued neutrals this season, gemstone colours are somewhat toned down. White agate, black onyx and a porcelain-like white stone called ‘kocholong’ have been added to the blue, green and red tones of traditionally used gemstones. Gold surface is also important, with a trend toward textured finishes that are hammered, beaded or engraved.

Volume is also a key factor in the latest collections, with long or multiple chains consisting of large, open and, in many cases, hollow links (which keeps weight down, making pieces more affordable). Many chains are richly embellished with charms, hollow gold beads and often a central, pendant-like feature. Large cuff bracelets and button-style earrings complete the voluminous look.

The truth is that, as in fashion, anything goes these days in fine jewelry. As far as I’m concerned, all jewelry is good, and some of my favourite pieces are 15 years old. But it’s always nice to be on the inside track when it comes to emerging trends, just in case you have a run-in with Miranda Priestly.