Explore the region’s rich history and cultural traditions, and enjoy its charming inns and upscale dining

BAYFIELD, ON – It’s a good thing I didn’t have to choose.

On a recent visit to Huron County, I stayed at both the Benmiller Inn & Spa and the Little Inn of Bayfield. Can’t tell you which was my favourite. How do you choose between the cozy country hideaway of Benmiller and the historic, main street charm of the Little Inn? Part of the Ontario’s Finest Inns program, both succeed in offering a warm, welcoming environment, cozy accommodation and topnotch dining.

In fact, the warmth of the welcome in Huron County was something that was evident right from the start and continued throughout my stay. Have to admit I’d never been to this part of the province before. My family used to have a cottage on Lake Simcoe so that’s where I spent most of my summers growing up. Heck, my husband and I used to own a 32-foot Bayfield sailboat, but I still never ventured to the town that gave it its name.

So, for a few days I traipsed along the shore of Lake Huron through communities such as Bayfield, Goderich, Blyth, Seaforth, St. Joseph, Hensall and Exeter, taking in exceptional Ontario heritage architecture, the fabulous beaches and laidback atmosphere. What fun!

Theatregoers will be familiar with the small community of Blyth, home to the outstanding Blyth Festival. For more than 30 years, the festival has been producing original Canadian plays, and last season marked its 100th world premiere.

“Absolutely extraordinary,” says Eric Coates, the festival’s artistic director, in reaching that milestone. “It was a pretty crazy idea when it started, but the festival and the community have hung in. And I think we’ve achieved that by staying true to the cultural experience that you get in this area. We always strive to keep it genuine.”

Coates says this season is about exceptional women in interesting situations. Eyes of Heaven, by Beverley Cooper, is about a young girl, Eloise, who sees a UFO. Not only is she at odds with her mother over her broken curfew, she becomes at odds with the town when the ‘truth’ comes out. “It quickly moves to how difficult it is to be different in a small town, to be ostracized,” he says.

With Queen Milli by Gary Kirkham, “I read the script and fell in love with it,” he says. It’s a blend of fantasy and fact, and a story about what might have happened if the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII), who actually visited the region in 1919, fell in love with a girl from Galt.

The life of incredible Canadian folk artist Maud Lewis is the story in World Without Shadows, by Lance Woolaver. Lewis, who lived in Digby County, N.S., struggled with physical infirmity and a difficult husband, but produced hundreds of gloriously colourful paintings of rural life in Nova Scotia.

And Reverend Jonah, by Paul Cinfo, is set in a typical small town and looks at the fears and guilt that can plague a community. “There are difficult moments in it, but what I really love about it is there’s a real undercurrent of love for community and the organizations that hold a community together,” says Coates.

Also back this September is The Ballad of Stompin’ Tom, which looks at the Canadian icon’s life through his music and stars the incredible Randy Hughson.

Just a few kilometres from Goderich is the Benmiller Inn. Situated in a wooded valley on the banks of the Maitland River, it has the feel of a small village. Five beautifully renovated mills dating back to the 19th century offer 57 rooms, dining room and lounge, spa and indoor pool. My room in the Gledhill House had a king-size bed with cozy duvet, sitting area and modern bath. Throughout the properties, authentic details have been retained including barn board floors, wagon wheels turned on their sides for glass-topped tables and ironwork turned into lamps and décor items.

The dining room and lounge are in the former Woollen Mill. The blazing fire offered cozy warmth on a cool day. Under the direction of Executive Chef Peter Ochitwa, the Inn makes all its own breads, pastries, preserves and sauces.

“We take the natural surroundings and use them to our advantage. We use local suppliers and products from local farmers,” says Scott Evans, the Benmiller’s friendly innkeeper.

After dinner, I walked back to my room at Gledhill along the quiet laneway. All was still and peaceful, the air fresh and invigorating. Sleep was immediate and blissful.

Each summer in Goderich, the Gairbraid Theatre Company takes to the stage with a terrific selection of dramas, comedies and classics. A highlight of this season (June 13 to Aug. 25) is Last Man Hanged, by John Melady, the true local story of a murderous rampage in 1868 that killed a farmer, his wife and their unborn child. Two men got off, one did not – and he was the last man hanged in public in Canada (Dec. 7, 1869).

Now in its 15th year, the Goderich Celtic Roots Festival, Aug. 10-12, reflects the Scottish and Irish heritage of the people that founded Huron County. It promotes Celtic music, dance, craft and culture. It is considered one of the finest Celtic festivals anywhere and this year features performers from across Canada, Scotland, Ireland, Wales, England, France, Germany, Denmark and the United States.

For history buffs, two interesting stops in Goderich are the Huron County Gaol, which was in use from 1842 to 1972, and the Huron County Museum. Through exhibits and personal stories, both sites do a great job of telling the tales of the region.

The first thing I noticed as I arrived at the Little Inn of Bayfield was the big, gorgeous willow tree out front. Then my eye drifted to the delightful front porch. By the time I stepped into the sitting room just inside the front door, I was charmed.

This heritage inn has been welcoming guests since 1832. While keeping a traditional feel, it has definitely kept up with the times. Modern rooms offer a choice of whirlpool tubs, fireplaces and private verandahs. Many people come for the spa, and definitely stay for the food, beautifully prepared with ingredients sourced locally by Executive Chef Jean Jacques Chappuis.

“Make famous what you have,” says the Little Inn’s owner Richard Fitoussi. “Leave truffles to the French, we have great mushrooms right here in Huron County.” That evening we dined on ‘Serrano’ air-dried ham made at Metzger Meats in nearby Hensall. It was delicious.

Wandering around town the next day, I ventured into Turner Gallery. “We feature Canadian artists, two-thirds of whom are local,” says the gallery’s Sue Gammage. I admired the powerful landscapes of Greg Sherwood from Wingham and the rich floral paintings of Barbara McKnight. The gallery is owned by Brad Turner, who is a producer on the hit television series 24, starring Kiefer Sutherland.

Across the street is the Black Dog Pub & Bistro, owned by Ted McIntosh and Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh. Ted’s a graduate sommelier and Kathleen is a chef and food writer (author of Simply the Best, Food and Wine from Ontario’s Finest Inns).

While its style is very relaxed, the Black Dog is definitely a cut above when it comes to food and drink. Featuring gastro pub food made with local ingredients from what Kathleen calls “the breadbasket of Ontario,” the pub also stocks about 25 Irish whiskys and 50 single malts, plus a beverage lovers selection of imported and microbrewed beers.

“We escaped from Toronto and will never go back,” says Ted. “We’ve fallen in love with Bayfield.”